The Fashion Startup Pre-Production Checklist: 38 Things to Do Before You Place a Bulk Order

Most first-order problems in clothing manufacturing are caused by things that were either not done, not done completely, or done in the wrong order before the order was placed. This checklist exists to prevent that. It covers everything from your initial brand clarity to your final sample approval — 38 items across seven categories, with brief explanations of why each one matters.

This is written for buyers in the UK, USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and Europe placing their first or second production order with an Indian manufacturer. It's not exhaustive for every possible situation, but it covers the areas where most founders encounter problems.

Direct Answer — "What do I need to prepare before contacting a clothing manufacturer?"

Before contacting a clothing manufacturer, you need: a clear product description (garment type, silhouette, fabric direction, and colour), reference images or sketches, an approximate quantity, your target retail price and market, and a realistic timeline. You don't need a finished tech pack to begin a conversation — but you should have one, or be working toward one, before any sampling begins. The more clearly you can articulate what you want before the first conversation, the faster and cheaper the process will be.

Category 1: Brand and Product Clarity (Do These Before Anything Else)

• ✓Define your customer specifically.

  Not a demographic bracket — a person. Their age, where they shop, what they spend on clothing they love, and why your product is for them.

• ✓Identify your 2–4 hero products.

  Start with what will sell, not with the full collection you eventually want to build. A focused first range is a testable first range.

• ✓Know your retail price.

  Work backwards from your target retail price to the production cost you need to achieve a viable margin. UK: 2.8–4x cost is typical for independent brands. AU/US: 3–4x.

• ✓Define your positioning clearly.

  Artisan/slow fashion? Sustainable basics? Premium boho? Your positioning determines your manufacturer — they are not interchangeable across these categories.

• ✓Know your size range.

  What sizes are you starting with?

  UK 8–16 | US XS–XL | EU 36–44. Your first size range affects how complex your tech pack is and how much fabric you need.

Category 2: Design Documentation (Before You Contact a Manufacturer)

• ✓Build a reference image library.20–30 images covering silhouette, fabric, colour direction, construction details, and any print or embellishment references. A shared Google Drive folder or PDF works well.

• ✓Sketch each garment. Hand-drawn sketches are fine. Front and back view. Add any construction notes you know — pocket placement, closure type, neckline detail.

• ✓Specify fabric preferences in writing."Linen, 170–200 GSM, natural undyed or soft blush, unwashed finish" is far more useful than "linen, flowy."

• ✓Provide Pantone colour references for all colourways. If you don't have Pantone access, buy a Pantone cotton swatch card — it's a worthwhile investment that eliminates colour disputes throughout your production life.

• ✓If you have a tech pack, review it for completeness before sending. Check that measurements, construction notes, trim specs, and label requirements are all present. Incomplete tech packs cost more to fix during sampling than they save in preparation time.

• ✓If you don't have a tech pack, decide how you'll get one. Freelance technical designer (£150–£450 per style), manufacturer-supported development, or tech pack software. Don't start bulk production without one.

Category 3: Manufacturer Selection (Before You Commit to Any Single Supplier)

• ✓Shortlist at least three manufacturers. Comparing three gives you a baseline for price, communication quality, and process maturity. Choosing based on one option gives you no reference point.

• ✓Verify in-house production for each. Ask for a video walkthrough. Ask whether the artisan techniques you need are done on-site.

• ✓Confirm export experience to your market. Ask specifically: "How many shipments have you sent to [UK/USA/Canada/Australia/EU] in the past 12 months?"

• ✓Request client references from your target market. Contact at least one. Ask about quality, communication, and what happened when something went wrong.

• ✓Get itemised quotes from each shortlisted manufacturer. Fabric cost, CMT, trims, and packaging should be listed separately. Total-only quotes are not comparable and hide assumptions.

• ✓Verify GST registration for any Indian manufacturer you're considering. Legitimate Indian businesses have a GST registration number verifiable at gst.gov.in.

Category 4: Sampling (Before You Approve Anything)

• ✓Confirm the sample fee and credit arrangement in writing before paying.Standard: sample cost credits to first bulk order. Get this confirmed by email, not just verbally.

• ✓Request physical fabric swatches before sampling begins. Never start a sample using fabric you've only seen in a photograph.

• ✓Provide a measurement specification sheet with your tech pack. The manufacturer should measure the sample against this sheet and provide the measurements with the sample shipment.

• ✓When your sample arrives, photograph it before you open the packaging. If there's transit damage, you need evidence.

• ✓Measure every critical point against your spec. Record the measurements. Don't approve based on how it looks — measure it.

• ✓Try the sample on a body that represents your customer. Not your own body if you're not in your target size range.

• ✓Wash the sample before approval. Check colour fastness, dimensional change, and print or embroidery integrity after washing.

• ✓Write revision feedback in specific, measurable terms. Waist is 3cm too wide; reduce 1.5cm from each side seam" — not "it feels big."

• ✓Only give written sample approval when you are genuinely happy. The moment you approve, bulk production begins at scale. There is no easy correction mechanism after that point.

Category 5: Business and Legal Basics (Before Your Bulk Order)

• ✓Get a signed Purchase Order covering quantity, spec, price, timeline, quality standards, and payment terms. Not just an email exchange — a document both parties have confirmed.

• ✓Understand your import duty rate for your specific garment type: UK 10–12% on most woven garments. EU: 9–12% (GSP rate). Canada: varies 0–18%. Australia: 0% in most categories. USA: HTS-dependent.

• ✓Identify a freight forwarder in your country before your first shipment. They handle customs clearance and can advise on duty rates for your specific HS code.

• ✓Confirm payment method. Bank transfer to the manufacturer's business account is standard. Never pay to personal accounts. Confirm the receiving bank details before any transfer.

• ✓Understand what your compliance labels must say. UK and EU require fibre content, country of origin, care instructions, and size labels. US requires care labels per FTC regulations. Australian requirements include country of origin declaration.

• ✓For EU sales: confirm REACH compliance documentation for all fabrics used.AZO dye test reports or OEKO-TEX certification for each fabric.

Category 6: Branding and Packaging (Before Production Completes)

• ✓Order woven labels well in advance.Woven label lead time: typically 18–25 days from proof approval. Order before your bulk production starts so they arrive in time to be sewn in.

• ✓Finalise care label content. Required content varies by market — confirm requirements for your primary sales market before printing.

• ✓Design and order hangtags.Standard lead time 10–15 days. Include your brand name, product name or reference, price (optional), and care instructions if not on a sewn label.

• ✓Decide on packaging spec and communicate it to your manufacturer. Folded or hanging? Polybag per piece? Tissue wrap? Carton quantity? These details need to be in your purchase order so the packing is done correctly.

Category 7: Launch Planning (Running Parallel to Production)

• ✓Book your product photography before your goods arrive.Good photographers for independent fashion brands book 3–6 weeks in advance. Book early so you're not waiting post-delivery.

• ✓Set up your website product pages before stock arrives.Have everything ready to publish — copy, sizing information, care guide — so you can launch within days of receiving your goods, not weeks.

• ✓Plan your pre-launch audience building.An email list of even 200 interested people is worth more than an advertising budget at launch stage.

• ✓Set realistic sell-through targets."All 100 pieces sold in 30 days" is unlikely for a first launch. "50% sold in 60 days" is a reasonable target that tells you the collection is working and reorder is viable.

Ready to Start? Ashanari Is Ready When You Are.

If you've worked through this checklist and you know what you want to make, we'd like to hear from you. Send us your brief — product types, quantities, fabric direction, timeline, and target market. We'll tell you what's achievable, what it will cost, and what the timeline looks like. No vague estimates. No agents. Direct communication with the production team in Jaipur who will actually make your garments.

Send Us Your Brief →

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